Please include the route, snow level, any hazards encountered (or not), peak(s) attempted, and whether your party successfully summitted. In addition to professional instruction in climbing skills, most importantly, you will learn skills that will keep you safe in the mountains. There were no recent trip reports to cue me in to the condition of route, as well as tons of unknowns regarding Joe and Rob's comfort level on unprotected scrambles, steep snow, possible AI2-3 slopes and down-climbing. We are a committed equal opportunity outdoor recreation service provider. This is our happy place. You may also consider bringing a cold meal of dried meat, bread, pizza, or sandwiches. There are composting toilets at climbing areas in Boston Basin and the Sulphide Glacier on Mt. At the bottom of the gully pick up the trail to Lake Ann. Date changes may be requested at any time up to 45 days prior to your departure date for a $100.00 fee per person. When registering for a trip within . Turn left onto F & S Grade Road, From State Highway 20 East, at the traffic circle, take the 2nd exit onto Cook Road (after the Walgreens), Follow Cook Road to Borseth Road in Sedro-Woolley, 7 min (4.3 mi) There are no resources for this route/place. Permits are mandatory any time you plan to spend the night, whether in a tent or at a bivy site. Draped in glaciers and capped with a beautiful, 3-sided summit pyramid, it more than lives up to its name. Day 3 Hike to Trailhead. Shuksan (9,131') is a stunning massif of ridges, pinnacles, and glaciers located in Washington's North Cascades. You will need to provideall of your own meals during the Mount Shuksan Fisher Chimneys Climb. Shuksan rises in Whatcom County, Washington immediately to the east of Mount Baker, and 11.6 miles south of the Canada-US border. However, while browsing rec.gov I noticed that previously unavailable permits for Price XC zone on Shuksan had become available, probably a cancellation due to the weekend only having a 2-day window of splitter weather. At about 2 mi, cross small creek and hike up small stream and over ridge southeast (4,800 ft) to Lake Ann. This gully system is called Fisher Chimneys and contains sections of small gullies (chimneys) to climb up. For more information on food storage requirements see this page. As we headed downhill into the darkness, the flies seemed to dissipate, and we made good time to Lake Ann. Trip: Mount Shuksan - Fisher Chimneys Trip Date: 08/04/2019 Trip Report: . Read our Four-Legged Stool blog post for tips on finding the right adventure for you. Shuksan is located in the North Cascades National Park at the edge of the Mount Baker Scenic Byway. Even strong runners may struggle to carry a heavy pack over steep, uneven terrain for hours at a time. Times: 2-3 hr trailhead to camp, 7-8 . Youll save yourself energy and youll protect the wilderness. Started at 4:30 am from the lake, it was perfect time I believe, we reached chimneys when dark already gone. According to Fred Beckey: Mt. Joe coming down the first rappel from just below the summit. permits. All balances are due 120 days prior to climb start date and can be paid by check, wire transfer, or by credit card with a surcharge of 3%. Prophet, to name a few. A backcountry permit is required year-round for all overnight trips within the park complex, climbs included. I ran into the bathroom. We scramble 600 feet of 3rd class rock to the summit, where we enjoy fantastic views of the North Cascades and Mount Baker. After getting both of them set up with extended rappels, I would rap with coils to get the ropes down to the next station and set up. The Mountain Bureau secures backcountry permit reservations with the National Park Service for all of our scheduled climbs so you dont have to worry about access. Note: Please read our Mountaineering Boots and Crampons guides for recommendations. At 8:00 a.m. on the morning of the climb, we meet at the Guide Hut in Sedro-Woolley, WA for equipment check and orientation before heading to the trailhead. This offering is a perfect graduation from mountaineering into alpinism and offers stunning views of the Puget Sound. Since departures require a minimum number of participants, Northwest Alpine Guides must adhere to a stringent refund policy. For a quote, or to purchase travel insurance, please click this link Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance. Although food must still be stored securely from wildlife, canisters are not required for camping or bivying on glaciers or on high routes along ridge lines. The latest climbing conditions reports are obtained from climbing and wilderness rangers, the voluntary climbing register, and reports from other climbers. Consider the experience of your party and ensure you have adequately experienced climbers to supervise/assist lessexperienced climbers throughthe bottlenecks and rockfall hazards presented on this climb. Shuksan. Shuksan Arm is located in the Mount Baker National Forest. Shuksan is the center piece. HMG Prism was just about perfect for this trip - gypsy camp with everything packed but perfect slimmed down on summit day. Never bury waste in snow, throw it in a crevasse, or smear it near your route or camp. This offers an attractive climbing venue with significant relief and majestic views. Care for the trees (and flowers and meadows) Log in and send us We left Seattle about 5:30. am, to ensure that were the first people at the ranger station for Price XC. Climb for experienced climbers or basic graduates. Top of the dihedral that everyone likes to take pics of. Although food must still be stored securely from wildlife, canisters are not required for camping or bivying on glaciers or on high routes along ridge lines. The Fisher Chimneys portion of the climb ascend the imposing West face of the mountain, skirting the . This put my summit time goal 9am. The road Is closed a little bit before the official lake Ann trailhead but you can park in the lower lots and walk up ( less than half a mile). There were two moments when the extra 10m was needed, but only because we were pitching everything out both instances would have been overcome if we had been down climbing or simul climbing. Despite the fact that Hells Highway was steeper than Winnies slide, the darkness helped mask the sense of exposure so I was able to just keep our party moving up the slope without needing to pull out pickets and do a running belay. Log in and send us We busted out the stoves and had a hot lunch at the lower bivy section while we waited for the occupying party to come down. We had a solid 4 hours of effort ahead of us back to the cars, but the respite from the sun was a welcome change of climate for the hike out. Log in and send us For more info about current coverage plans and quotes please visit. The Guide Hut offers a selection of mountaineering equipment and clothing for purchase and rent. Climb easy snow and rock, then climb 150 ft up a slope of steep snow or ice (Winnie's Slide, incorrectly labeled on the map), and cross through the ridge onto the Upper Curtis Glacier. You should be able to ascend 3,000 feet per day while carrying 20-25 pounds on your back, and 4,000 feet per day while carrying 45 pounds or more on your back. Sulphide Glacier Approach. The Sulphide was cruiser, very straightforward and direct path up to the summit. June 28-29. It is longer, steeper, and involves more technical terrain than the standard Sulphide Glacier Route on Mount Shuksan. Shuksan is one of the most photographed mountains in the world. The fog was still quite thick, and the combination of exertion and humidity had us all soaked. Return times on the final day of the program are difficult to predict. It weaves through a steep and exposed chimney system on the Shuksan Arm, briefly touches the top of White Salmon Glacier, up a steep snow slope, across the dramatic Upper Curtis Glacier, up a second steep step to the Sulphide Glacier and finishes at the 3/4th class . The anchors at the top of the Chimneys are best used only when there . Rental gear must be reserved in advance online at, endurance, core strength, flexibility and balance, For your safety and the safety of your rope team, you must, be able to maintain the pace set by our guides, e lose precious daylight hours and we expose ourselves to quickly shifting, VISIT OUR ONLINE GEAR SHOP > THE GUIDE HUT, Fairfield Inn & Suites by Marriott Burlington, La Quinta Inn & Suites by Wyndham Burlington. We got together early every Thursday and worked on rope skills, gear selection, and other academic type content that was workable in a classroom setting, with the intent of 'graduating' with two weekend climbing trips in August. Distance: 5 miles, 4,000 ft. gain. Gully had good rap slings and rings. Mountaineering is a strenuous activity that imposes unique demands on our bodies. Each deposit includes a $300.00 nonrefundable registration fee. Mt Shuksan - Fisher Chimney's + SE Ridge. Day 2 . Fisher Chimneys- 7/18/16. Solid holds all over the chimneys make for fun scrambling. From June 1 to November 15, allowed hard-sided food canisters are required for camping below the vegetation line in Boston Basin, Eldorado, and Sulphide Glacier cross-country zones. At the base of the slide, the bivy spots were full, but we were told by the previous party that everyone up there had summited that day and were coming down. Descending the Fisher Chimneys themselves is best done as a downclimb rather than a series of rappels. Area Status: Open. You are responsible to carry all of your personal gear and food, as well as a portion of group gear (tents, ropes, stoves, fuel, etc.). Fisher Chimneys T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI1 Mod. Then I pulled the rope for them, packed up the picket anchor and downclimbed Hells Highway while they reconfigured the rope for glacier travel down below. The Upper Curtis glacier was shedding ice and rock all evening into the night, an excellent reminder of the ever present objective hazards and motivation to stay efficient moving under the cliff bands to the left the next day. We used both ropes in a caterpillar manner for the ridge climb. 2020-07-25-26 Mount Shuksan via Fisher Chimneys. Distance: 13.7 mi. Also recommended for mid-summer climbs. Please visit the online Gear Shop for a list of available merchandise and to pre-purchase items. I made sure to follow the main upper route on the way down, which involved more 3rd class down climbing than I expected. What a beautiful place! 1670 S Burlington Blvd We all tried to get to sleep early since our plan was to get up at 2am and be moving between 3am and 3:30, but I set another alarm for sunset to get a few pictures before fully going to bed for the short night. Here are a few details of our successful summit climb of Mount Shuksan Fisher Chimneys. Click here for directions However, Spontaneity Arete was also not normally a persons first ever alpine rock climb and Joe had kept it together and followed me up that without issue. Location: Mount ShuksanRatio: 2:1 climber to guide (max. The Fisher Chimney Route is an excellent choice for intermediate mountaineers. In recent years, many climbers have noticed and complained, with bitterness touched by sadness, about the myriad of fluttering flags found along many, many routes in the North Cascades. Video Resource: Mountain Snack and Lunch Ideas. We strongly recommend that climbers book a hotel night following the final day of their itinerary and schedule departure flights on the following day. Note:All solid waste must be carried out of the backcountry. Off Trail but can't complain about the dramatic view hiking over the Lower Curtis glacier. Joe and Rob rapped down the steep section. Plan to arrive the day before the climb begins. Baker stands in the background. Day 3: Breakfast. Forbidden is a significant step up from Shuksan for a lot of reasons. Follow a trail toward the lower Curtis Glacier. Climb rock, ice, steep snow, and cross a massive glacier on this four-day climb of one of the most picturesque mountains in North America. Related climbs: Mount Shuksan Sulphide Glacier, Mount Shuksan Fisher Chimneys,Forbidden Peak, Mount Baker North Ridge, Day 1 Hike to High Camp 6-ish miles and a few hours later, after digging deep into our energy reserves, we arrived back at the cars at 12:30am; 20 hours and 42 minutes after we had stepped onto the Upper Curtis Glacier that morning. The mountain has become an icon for climbers in the northwest with its rugged beauty and rich mountaineering history. Glacier navigation was straightforward, a couple obvious turns required on the Upper Curtis but nothing we couldn't see from a very safe distance. ) to Lake Ann within the Park complex, climbs included even strong runners may struggle carry. 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